Sunday, January 25, 2009

Valle Chacobucca

hey! We made it!
After something like 60 hours of travel over the course of about 5 days, Justin and I were dropped off at the side of the road near ¨Entrada Baker". A friendly American named Cameron(who had previously tried to contact Conservacion Patagonica) decided on the spot to jump off the bus with us. He´s touring around for a few months before beginning a Fulbright Fellowship in Bariloche, Argentina to study massive "die-backs", i.e. single species mass extinctions and will just be visting the park area for a few days.

Two Brits (jay and amy) and an Kiwi (Femke) also arrived yesterday and will be newbies with Justin and I. Also, two American girls from UC Berkley are here for a few more days doing a pilot for one of their dissertation. We had a big table of gringos at dinner last night, and it was fun to be surrounded by intelligent outdoorsy people again. I had forgotten again how much I missed it since leaving Williams.

We just had a quickie powerpoint introduction to the project. Very Cool. We head up to go start pulling fences this afternoon and have a BBQ with the other volunteers up there. We´ll be out for roughly a week then before we come back here and have a few free days. Schedules are not necessarily weekly, so I won´t necessarily have internet access every Saturday for instance.

The park is literally filled with Guanaco (llamas ancestral wild cousin)--far more common than even whitetail deer in Western PA--, skunks, and we´re already seen a fox twice now. Amazing to be so surrounded by wildlife.

Jon, can you please try to get some topo maps while you´re in Santiago (apparently the army-government are the only ones who have them) and then get maps of Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni at Conaf in Coyhaique. I had checked Conaf in Santiago, but they just referred me to the Conaf in Coyaique.

Pictures will arrive at some point, sorry. Looks alot like the picture in my first blog post, except everything is really far far bigger than in the picture. Absolutely beautiful spot. I immediately feel like I could stay here for a year pretty easily, but we´ll see how pulling fencing changes that opinion.

Friday, January 23, 2009

Puerto Montt to Coyhaique

Soooo...

Justin arrived on Tuesday night -- as I should have expected it was much harder to catch a bus to the airport than from the airport -- and I completed my wing-and-a-prayer round-trip journey to the airport with more help from a nice Santiagoan. At the airport , we checked on the price of a flight to Coyhaique (as per the original plan) and found they had jumped to 230 USD from 196USD earlier that day and 65USD a month ahead of time, but I think the month-ahead-of-time price was really a lie, because we couldnt actually make reservations.

So Justin and I headed back to the hostel to mull things over. Zoey, my new Australian friend, convinced us to check out the bus situation because she and Alice had taken them for hundreds of hours over the past few months and found them extremely reasonable in price and accomidations. Justin and I booked a ticket 12 hours south to Puerto Montt the next morning.

The ride was an overnighter and left Wednesday at 9pm, so Justin and I headed out to see the one final sight that I had missed in my previous 4 days in Santiago: Cerro San Crystabal. Its a giant hill that pops up 800m from the middle of the city, where a 100ft tall Mother Mary looks scornfully down at all the sinners. A 27-yr old fellow Pennsylvanian joined Justin and I for the day. Yogi had gone to Pitt and played Wide Receiver behind and was roommates with Larry Fitzgerald -- and was an unwaivering Cardinals fan despite not liking their chances versus the Steel Curtain. He had worked the last 4 years under Pete Carol out at USC and was now taking 6 weeks to go travel South America. His upcoming job upon return is to market Coach Carol`s WINFOREVER saying. He already has endorsements from ESPN and Nike and some coverage on 60minutes to build from -- life is good when you´re a talented wide receiver with a winning smile.

After yet another day of seeing (the same) sights in Santiago, Justin and I hopped on a bus to head South. The seats were the Semi-Cama classification... and just fantastic. Despite some peoples need to rustle plastic bags for 30 minutes at a time at 6:30am, I slept pretty well in the wide chairs that reclined 45 degrees. We arrived at 9am in Puerto Montt and schlepted our giant backpacks (with daypacks haning off the front) down to the Ferry station to find that the Thursday boat had already filled. oops. It turns out that there is in fact no road that heads further south from Puerto Montt, so you must either cross the mountains into Argentina or take a ferry. We decided to fly. The flight set us back about 125USD but combined with the 35USD bus ride still saved us 80USD from Santiago-to-Coyhaique total. ... AAAAND we were able to go spend 5 hours hanging out on a beautiful beach overlooking the city with mountains in the background and cruise ships anchored out in the bay.


We´re now in Coyhaique. The flight was uneventful, but the airport is actually 55km away so we received a nice tour of the surrounding countryside. We catch a bus tomorrow at 9:30am toward Cochrane and get dropped off on the side of the road at Entrada Rio Baker. We´ll spend the next 6+ weeks there before picking up to go hit all the tourist sights again.

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Santiago II

my Spanish is improving rapidly, but I can't understand a thing if it is spoken. Apparently Chileans drop syllables and use lots of slang phrases though, so it is hard for even graduate level speakers to get it all. I've been staying in a nice hostel (~$15 a night, which isn't that cheap but it's easier than moving). It's so confusing because sunset is actually 9pm here whereas it was 4:15pm when I was at home on Friday -- it's almost exhausting to have so many more hours of daylight. I wish I had some more of them back in Portland. Saturday night I made friends with my Austrian roommate and two Australians and hit up a huge local club. Apparently things don't really get started until midnight. A live band came on at 1am and we ended up back at home around 6am -- wasn't exactly the way I had planned to spend my first night in Chilean (/any night in Chile for that matter), but I made some friends and got to see a good bit of Santiago.
Sunday I slept in late -- I had slept about 6 hours thursday and friday nights combined -- and I just wondered around the city parks nearby. Monday, the Australians and I rented bikes and saw a bit more of the downtown. We had lunch in the giant seafood market (Mercado Central) -- had a great seafood soup -- it wasn't gourmet but it would have cost at least $25 at home but was just $5 and was full of clams, mussels, fish, and crab with no filler material (i.e. potatoes, corn) just the good stuff. Justin gets in today at 8pm and I'm supposed to meet him at the airport and escort him back to the hostel. I feel fairly confident navigating the city during the day, but I'm not super thrilled about finding my way after dark--I'm not sure I'll recognize things as well. As two guys we should be pretty safe though I still have yet to use the metro (which is supposed to be very safe, mom). We'll spend tonight in Santiago, and fly to Coyhaique on Wendnesday. It will be nice to have a buddy, but I think it has been good for my Spanish to get my feet wet alone.

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Santiago!

I'm here!

26 hours and three flights with three different airlines and going through security three times, my bag and I eventually reached Chile early this morning. On that note... time here is 2 hours faster than East Coast ( so 9am in Pittsburgh is 11am here). Since Chile is actually due South from the East Coast, it means that sunrise is at about 7am and sunset near 9pm, which makes a lot more sense to me than the 5:15am sunrises that American time creates during its peak of summer.

I cashed in some Kharma almost immediately upon arrival... made friendly with another tall blond who is from somewhere in South America, but has been a student in Santiago for 6 months, and he basically escorted me directly to my hostel. I thought it would have been challenging to bus to the hostel alone -- I probably wouldn't have ever made it here if not for him. Since I don't have a cell phone, we unfortunately parted ways after finding the hostel. So I guess I'll just pay it forward.

I spent a few hours today wondering around the Bellavista section of the city where the hostel is located just trying to get oriented. Tomorrow I'll probably be a little more bold and take a camera with me to go see some of the big sights.

It's strange to be surrounded by a language I can't understand (reading is okay though), but stranger to be here with out any plan and no companions or affiliations at all. But, new expereinces are why I'm here in the first place. Anyway, time to go make friends/ learn Espanol / and find some delicious empanadas for dinner.

Thursday, January 15, 2009

So where are you going?

Ahh well glad you asked…


In Chile, Jon, Justin and I will be volunteering with the Patagonia Land Trust in the Chacabuco Valley of Chile’s Region XI in Northern Patagonia. Basically, the founder of North Face and the former CEO of Patagonia Clothing are married. And filthy rich. Obviously. These two rounded up some other benefactors and bought up 300 sq miles of sheep ranches abutting a 600 sq mile National Reserve in southern Chile. Taken together, that's nearly the size of Rhode Island and three times the size of Grand Teton National Park. The founders bought the 'estancia' complete with sheep, and have been slowly working to decrease the herd while they remove any traces of the last 150 years of agricultural use.


And that's where we come in. The job description was almost entirely composed of euphemisms, but it seems like we'll be pulling out miles of old barb-wire fences and other manual labor tasks. We'll head out to a location on Monday morning, work there for four days, and return to base camp on Friday evening. We'll then have two rest days to go explore the park on our own or head 15 miles to the nearest town (Cochrane, pop. 3000). We'll camp out every night, but will have access to electricity, showers, and laundry once a week. To keep their funds heading to actual projects, the program asks for $15/day for food and maintenance of facilities. Elevation at base camp is only ~ 1500ft, but 7000ft peaks loom just a few miles away. A giant glacier field with some 15000ft peaks lies 50 miles to our west. Find more information and pictures at the gorgeous website www.PatagoniaLandTrust.org


Here is a map of the location …

And a photograph of the base camp …


Since Last We Spoke

So I haven’t been great at keeping in touch with everyone. My apologies. The following is a mighty quick version of my life since I graduated.

I'm in Latrobe, PA at home with the 'rents right now, but I leave for Chile on Friday. So let's see... I probably saw you over the summer, when I was on a tricycle... Well, I made it Seattle no worse for the wear! Finished up the bike trip 66 days after leaving Boston, still rode ~3200 of the 4000 mile trip even with shattering my shoulder. After a few days in Seattle, I flew back home to PA. I spent the month of September earning a Wilderness-EMT certification up in New Hampshire and then moved out to Portland, OR and lived with Veronica for the fall.

The plan had been to work as an urban EMT with my shiny new certification, but alas, archaic Oregon-state bureaucracy meant receiving reciprocity for my NH and National Registry certifications took months ...and by the time I actually arrived, the city of Portland had filled all vacancies for EMT-Basics anyway. Soooo I started the job search. After yet another rejection following a promising interview (at a running store this time), I decided to count how many applications I had sent in. 59. Despite the pride in having put up such a big number in only five weeks, 59 was, in fact, a really depressing number of times to have been rejected, and I decided to quit looking for jobs and spend the rest of the fall just burning money and enjoying myself. The following morning I got a call from Kiddie Kandids to come work a part time seasonal position in their baby photography studio.

Since the baby photography was only part-time, I caved and decided to work part-time as a street canvasser for Children International at least until the photo job kicked in. The canvassing was a really interesting experience. Few times in my life have I ever been as exhausted as after my first day of standing downtown for 8 hours, excitedly greeting people, and trying (unsuccessfully) to get them to sponsor a child for $22/month. My whole body and soul (and especially soles) ached, buuut I also go paid $10/hr. It was an interesting group that I worked with: everyone I worked with was young and had a huge personality, and badly needed money – a couple were even homeless. It turned out that I had the social chops to do the job, but I lacked the tenacity or theatrical flair that helped coworkers really excel at selling sponsorships. Meanwhile job security as a canvasser is a non-entity – miss your daily quota and you're gone.

On the other front, while my photo experience landed me the job at Kiddie Kandids, I did essentially no photography as an employee. As a seasonal hire with no previous child or studio photography experience I was relegated to the sales computers, where I cropped and edited photos, designed Christmas cards, and sold the photo packages. In comparison to the canvassing though, work at Kiddie Kandids seemed idyllic – I got to work inside, and sit down, and most importantly, the customers had already come to the store with the intent of purchasing what I was selling. Actually the exact opposite of canvassing. After three weeks of working both part-time jobs, I quit canvassing and enjoyed having some greater free time.

In December, I put in my two-weeks-notice at Kiddie Kandids and retired as the store's top seller. The week before I left, Portland got hammered by a snowstorm – a whole inch and a half fell in one night. Oh wow. But sure enough, the next day major highways were closed and the entire city called in sick. The uncleared snow had turned the streets into sheets of ice after being driven on for 24 hours. It turns out the City of Portland doesn't use salt for environmental reasons, doesn't own plows, and instead requires that all vehicles use chains as they wait for warmer weather to come melt the snow. Well, instead of warming up, Portland was subsequently blanketed in over a foot of snow. It was amazing! Veronica and I rented Nordic skis from REI, and used them to get all around the city – the streets were incidentally groomed by the remaining auto traffic and were rendered wonderful ski routes. We spent a couple days just having fun skiing down around between the skyscrapers.

As Christmas approached, I got everything packed back up and shipped to Pennsylvania. On Christmas Eve, I hopped a flight back to Pittsburgh. The flight boarded on time, but de-icing the plane delayed the take-off by an hour. So by the time we landed at our layover in Las Vegas over 90% of the passengers on our plane had missed connecting flights – including me. Being Christmas Eve and all, the airlines had no additional flights until the next morning, but generously put us all up in hotels. Christmas in Vegas, baby! I made lemonade of the situation and headed out on the town with another stranded traveler. It was a fun night, but my god, Vegas is one of the most depressing places I’ve ever been. Instead of turning the lights and fanfare into a holiday extravaganza, Las Vegas was nearly devoid of any signs of Christmas cheer. I can guarantee that I wouldn't ever plan to do it again. My family picked me up from the Pittsburgh airport, and we had a nice dinner and opened presents that evening.

The vast majority of my time since I've been home has just been getting ready to head to South America. I have everything just about packed, but I wish I could find a way to leave another 20 pounds of it out of my backpack. I arrive in Chile on January 17th and will be joined by two college friends (Jon Stone and Justin Bates) within a week or two. We're volunteering down south in the Patagonia region, helping to build a new national park by ripping out old fences and any other artifacts of the mega-ranches that had used the property.

After two months in Chile, Jon and I will head up to Ecuador and visit Chris Beeler at his Peace Corps site. He started the 27-month program last June and is spreading the basics of Western medicine to far-flung villages in the jungles east of the Andes. He's having a pretty good time – the scenery is stunning, the job is exciting, and the language barrier is beginning to crumble. After spending three weeks with Chris in Ecuador, Jon and I will bounce back up to Los Angeles on our way to New Zealand. In New Zealand, we'll spend a month in a wildlife refuge on the North Island and then another month trekking our way through the national parks on the South Island.

I arrive back state-side June 10, but plans from there are up in the air. I will most likely either head to Switzerland with my sister or buckle down (finally) to study for the MCATs. This next year I would like to find a job leading trips for troubled teens or teaching at a mountain school or some other job in the outdoor industry. I think I'll probably plan on heading to med school fall of 2011, which means beginning the application process in June 2010.

Well that’s the quick version. Hopefully, I’ll see you soon enough and you can pull some more stories out of me over a couple drinks.